Replacing kitchen worktops only: new tops on old units

Make a worktop-only checklist before the survey

Write down which parts you want to keep: the sink, tap, hob, cabinet doors and wall finish. Then check the model information for the sink and hob rather than assuming their old openings can simply be copied. A new material may call for a different mounting detail or clearance. This is especially important when a surface-mounted sink is being replaced by an undermounted one. The decision changes the cut-out and support arrangement, not only the appearance of the bowl.

Look along the existing worktop from both ends and note changes in height, awkward corners and places where water has reached the cabinets. Photograph the joint by the sink and the underside where it is safely visible. That record helps explain the condition of the units without removing the top yourself. A heavy new surface needs a dependable cabinet line, so levelling and repairing are practical stages in the upgrade rather than cosmetic adjustments.

Finally, decide what will finish the wall above the new top. Keeping a tiled splashback may constrain the height of the replacement, while removing it can mean plaster repairs and new socket details. Choosing that scope before fitting prevents a new top being exposed to unnecessary removal work afterwards. A clear checklist lets the quote separate the top itself from repairs, connections and wall finishing.

Read more: Kitchen worktop replacement service, Plan a replacement splashback, Quartz and granite fitting

New worktops on old units: what to check

Start by checking that the units are level along their length and firmly fixed to the wall. Stone and quartz are heavy, and a carcass that has dropped at one end will need packing or refixing before templating. Look for water damage near the sink; swollen board under the old top is common and must be dealt with first.

Check the depth too. Some older units are slightly shallower than modern standard tops, which affects the overhang and the way end panels line up.

Read more: Book a kitchen worktop replacement

• Units level and firmly fixed
• No swollen board around the sink
• Depth and overhang compatible with new tops
• Sink and hob suit the new cut outs

Laminate to quartz upgrade

Moving from laminate to quartz is the most common worktop upgrade we see. The old tops come off, the units are checked and adjusted, then a templater measures for the stone. Fitting follows once the slabs are cut, which is usually a gap of one to two weeks. You can often keep a temporary top on in the meantime.

Undermounted sinks look best with stone, so many people replace the sink at the same time. Upstands or a full splashback finish the job.

Quartz worktop replacement: what it costs

Our worktop cost guide sets out prices per linear metre for each material, from laminate at £70 to £160 per metre up to quartz at £380 to £650 per metre supplied and fitted. On a worktop only job you add the removal of the old tops, reconnecting the sink and hob, and any making good to the wall above.

When new worktops are not enough

If doors are tired, drawers sag and carcasses are swollen, new tops on old units can look like a mismatch. In that case it may be better to look at new doors as well, or a full replacement. Our guide on new doors versus a new kitchen helps with that decision.

Splashbacks, upstands and finishing touches

Once the new tops are in, the wall line above them needs finishing. Matching upstands are quick and neat. A full height splashback in the same stone behind the hob looks striking and wipes clean. Glass and tiled splashbacks are cheaper alternatives. Whatever you choose, the silicone line where top meets wall should be thin, straight and unbroken, because it is on show every day.