Signs a tray needs replacing
The obvious one is a visible crack, even a hairline. Just as telling is movement: a tray that shifts or creaks underfoot is breaking its own seal every time the shower is used. Water sitting at one edge rather than running to the waste means the falls are wrong, and grout or silicone along the base that keeps staining or lifting is usually a sign water is getting behind it.
Any of these on their own justify a look. Two or more together usually mean the tray is at the end of its life.
Why trays crack in the first place
Almost every failed tray we lift has the same history: it was sat on dabs of adhesive or straight onto joists, with nothing supporting the middle. A tray is designed to be fully bedded. Leave voids underneath and it flexes, the flex opens the seal, water gets under the tray, the timber below softens, and the flexing gets worse.
Timber floors add their own movement through the seasons, which is why the floor itself is checked and stiffened before the new tray goes anywhere near it.
How we replace one properly
The screen comes off and the bottom course of wall tiles is removed so the tray can lift cleanly. With the tray out we can see the floor, the waste and the state of the boards, and this is the moment to stiffen timber, repair any water damage and renew the waste fitting.
The new tray is bedded on a solid, level base with access to the waste preserved, then the walls are made good, the base tiles are refitted and everything is sealed. Because our own tilers do that work, the finish around the base matches the rest of the room.
The chance to go bigger, lower or walk-in
A tray out is the cheapest moment to change your mind about the shower. Many homeowners move up a size, swap to a low profile tray that is easier to step onto, or go further and convert the space to a walk-in shower with a fixed screen. We price the options at the survey so you can decide with real figures.
Why the base tiles often come into it
The bottom course of tiles overlaps the tray, so it has to come off to do the job right, and tiles do not always survive removal. If your tiles are a current range, matching them is simple. If the range has been discontinued we will tell you before work starts and show you the closest options, or quote to re-tile the shower zone so the finish is consistent.
If water has been getting past the tray for a while, our page on a shower leaking through the ceiling explains what else to check, and our guide to why showers leak covers the underlying causes.
What we check at the survey
We measure the tray and enclosure, test the tray for movement, look at the waste route and ask what the ceiling below is doing. You then get a written, itemised quote covering the tray, the base, any floor repairs, the tiling and the sealing, so there is no guesswork about what is included.
While the work runs, the bathroom is sheeted and protected, the old tray and any damaged timber are taken away, and the room is cleaned down at the end of each day. You are not left with a skip full of your old shower to deal with, and the new tray is sealed and usable as soon as the sealant has cured.
If the room is due for more than a tray, the same visit can price a wider bathroom refit. Send the details through our contact form and we will arrange a time to look.
Questions about shower tray replacement
- Can a cracked shower tray be repaired rather than replaced?
- Hairline surface cracks can sometimes be filled, but a crack caused by movement underneath comes back, because the tray keeps flexing. If the base is unsupported, replacement with a solid bed is the lasting fix.
- Can you fit a larger tray in the same space?
- Often yes. If the enclosure walls allow it, moving up a size makes the shower noticeably more comfortable. We measure at the survey and confirm what fits before anything is ordered.
- Do you replace the shower waste at the same time?
- Yes, as a matter of course. A new tray on an old waste is a false economy, and access is never easier than the day the tray is out.
- Will the screen need to come off?
- Usually the screen or enclosure has to be removed and refitted so the tray can come out and the base can be resealed properly. It goes back on the rebuilt base before we finish.
- Is a stone resin tray better than acrylic?
- Stone resin is heavier and more rigid, which helps it stay put once it is bedded down. Acrylic is lighter and cheaper. Either lasts when the base is solid and level; neither survives being sat on bare joists.